Chicago - February 23 - 25, 2016

Willis Tower (aka Sears Tower)


I recently had the opportunity to visit Chicago during the heart of the winter.    I took a short break from the 80+ degree winter days in Los Angeles, to brave the cold and snowy winter in Chicago.  Between business meetings, I bundled up and took to the streets with my trusty camera,  visiting some of my favorite and some new locations.  I made new acquaintances, dined at some of my traditional restaurants and experienced the cuisine of some new ones.  On this trip I was able to experience the breathtaking view of the city from the 103rd floor of Willis Tower (aka Sears Tower).


PEOPLE

Canada Dry, Milk & Snow

Pedestrians on Wabash Avenue

Bundled in Red

Who is texting me?

 

Pedestrians on Wabash Ave.

Crossing the street before the signal changes.

Flowers

Bundle up and stay warm.

Homeless man on the Michigan Ave. Bridge.

Homeless man at Millennium Park

Blessings

Please help.

Balanced

Chicago Police

This "Kiss" was on the elevator up to the Skydeck at Willis Tower.   The other passengers appear unaware of "the 103 Story Kiss>"

Doormen at the Sheraton Grand


PLACES

Star Spangled Banner

Trump & Wrigley

A Taxi Will Get You out of The Snow.

Wabash Avenue Bridge

Perspective

Airplane Flying Over Wacker Drive

Out of Service

Chicago French Market

Fire Escapes

Welcome to Willis Tower

Willis Tower (aka Sears Tower)

View From "The Ledge"

View From 103 Stories


PASTRAMI

Kaufman's Deli - Skokie, IL

My flight arrived at approximately 6AM.    That allowed enough time for me to deplane and head directly to the ground transportation area where I was picked up by an Uber car.   Timing was perfect as we arrived at Kaufman's Deli just in time for the 7AM opening.  I knew that my breakfast would start with Kaufman's homemade "Gefilte Fish."   It was absolutely outstanding.  My next course was a piece of "Pastrami Strudel." This delicacy is a pastry dough filled with thinly sliced pastrami, chopped vegetables and spices, and is served hot.  This very flavorful item was certainly a creative preparation of my favorite deli meat.   I look forward to my next visit during which I plan on having a "Pastrami Knish."  Kaufman's has been one of my long time favorites in the Chicago area.

Tuesday Morning at Kaufman's Deli

Gefilte Fish

Pastrami Strudel

Manny's Cafeteria & Delicatessen

A trip to Chicago would not be complete without a visit to Manny's to enjoy an overstuffed "Pastrami on Rye" with a "Potato Latke" (pancake) on the side.  

Any questions?

Pile the Pastrami High.

A Picture is Worth a Thousand Words.

The Little Goat Diner

A newer addition to the Chicago restaurant scene is the Little Goat Diner, located in the trendy "West Loop" area.   As expected the diner has a very casual vibe.  The staff members that I encountered were warm, welcoming and accommodating.  The Little Goat serves innovative and intercultural variations of traditional diner fare.    I ordered a "Reuben Sandwich" - homemade smoked corned beef, kimchi, kraut, havarti and special sauce on pretzel rye.  It was an excellent sandwich.  As I looked around the dining room I saw many other guests enjoying a variety of appetizing creations.  I look forward to returning to try many other menu items. 

The Little Goat Diner

Welcome to The Little Goat Diner

Reuben Sandwich

 

Fumare Meats & Deli

On my return to the downtown area, not more than thirty minutes after having lunch at the Little Goat Diner, I encountered the entrance to the Chicago French Market.   I remembered that several years ago I heard about a deli in the Chicago French Market that served "Montreal-Style Pastrami." ( aka Montreal Smoked Meat).   I entered the market and within minutes located Fumare Meats & Deli.  Since I had just finished lunch and it was not yet time for dinner, I easily convinced myself that a "Montreal-Style Pastrami" sandwich would be a perfect dessert.   This homemade, hand-carved pastrami was outstanding.  I had the privilege of speaking with Joan McCracken, who along with her husband, Richard, own and operate this artisan deli.  There is no doubt that I will return to Fumare during my future visits to Chicago.

Fumare Meats & Deli

Fumare Meats & Deli

Montreal Style Pastrami

New York City

Lower Manhattan Skyline featuring One World Trade Center - 

Lower Manhattan Skyline featuring One World Trade Center - 

For decades I have been fascinated by the big city.  On a  typical visit to New York, I take the subway from JFK to my hotel in Manhattan, and with camera in hand I immediately immerse myself into this street photographer’s paradise.   New York City has it all.   It has the hustle and bustle of the business districts, the flavor of the neighborhoods, the majesty of the architecture and skylines, the Empire State Building, One World Trade Center and the Rockefeller Center, the landmarks, parks, museums and zoos,  the subways and buses, the street vendors and taxi drivers, cultural diversity and an extensive range of local and international cuisine.     And without question, New York is blessed with many excellent delis.


PEOPLE

A NEW FRIEND IN NEW YORK 

A NEW FRIEND IN NEW YORK

 

TWO SMILING YOUNG LADIES SERVING AN ICE CREAM CONE 

TWO SMILING YOUNG LADIES SERVING AN ICE CREAM CONE

 

SERVER AT BARNEY GREENGRASS DELI 

SERVER AT BARNEY GREENGRASS DELI

 

PRETZEL VENDOR 

PRETZEL VENDOR

 

HOT DOG VENDOR

HOT DOG VENDOR

NUTS 

NUTS

 

RAPPER AT TIMES SQUARE 

RAPPER AT TIMES SQUARE

 

TRADITIONAL BUSINESSMAN'S LUNCH 

TRADITIONAL BUSINESSMAN'S LUNCH

 

STREET VENDOR COUNTING THE CHANGE 

STREET VENDOR COUNTING THE CHANGE

 

RECYCLING 

RECYCLING

 

I SHARED MY PASTRAMI SANDWICH WITH THIS GENTLEMAN 

I SHARED MY PASTRAMI SANDWICH WITH THIS GENTLEMAN

 

ICE SKATING AT BRYANT PARK 

ICE SKATING AT BRYANT PARK

 

IN A SHOP AT BRYANT PARK 

IN A SHOP AT BRYANT PARK

 

STUFFED ANIMALS 

STUFFED ANIMALS

 

COLORFUL ATTIRE 

COLORFUL ATTIRE

 

IT IS IMPORTANT TO HELP THOSE WHO ARE LESS FORTUNATE 

IT IS IMPORTANT TO HELP THOSE WHO ARE LESS FORTUNATE

 

OUTSIDE THE COFFEE SHOP 

OUTSIDE THE COFFEE SHOP

 

ORCHIDS 

ORCHIDS

 

GREAT CONVERSATION WITH THIS GENTLEMAN ON HOUSTON STREET 

GREAT CONVERSATION WITH THIS GENTLEMAN ON HOUSTON STREET

 

NO RESERVATIONS NEEDED 

NO RESERVATIONS NEEDED

 

EXPIRED PARKING METER 

EXPIRED PARKING METER

 

WATCH YOUR STEP AS YOU EXIT THE SUBWAY TRAIN. 

WATCH YOUR STEP AS YOU EXIT THE SUBWAY TRAIN.

 

NEXT STOP

NEXT STOP

ON THE WAY DOWNTOWN 

ON THE WAY DOWNTOWN

 

MOTHERHOOD 

MOTHERHOOD

 

LUNCH BREAK 

LUNCH BREAK

 

HAPPY TO SEE YOU 

HAPPY TO SEE YOU

 

I HOPE TO SEE YOU AGAIN SOON 

I HOPE TO SEE YOU AGAIN SOON

 

EVEN A DOG NEEDS AN OCCASIONAL SPA TREATMENT 

EVEN A DOG NEEDS AN OCCASIONAL SPA TREATMENT

 


PLACES

VIEW TO THE SOUTH FROM ROCKEFELLER CENTER

 

VIEW TO THE NORTH FROM ROCKEFELLER CENTER

 

CEMETERY 

CEMETERY

 

  

 

 

COLUMBUS CIRCLE 

COLUMBUS CIRCLE

 

ROCKEFELLER CENTER  

ROCKEFELLER CENTER

 

 

SHRINE CHURCH OF ST. ANTHONY OF PADUA

SHRINE CHURCH OF ST. ANTHONY OF PADUA

SUBWAY 

SUBWAY

 

BEHIND THE SCENES 

BEHIND THE SCENES

 

TAXIS AT THE STARTING LINE 

TAXIS AT THE STARTING LINE

 

TIMES SQUARE 

TIMES SQUARE

 

EMPIRE STATE BUILDING 

EMPIRE STATE BUILDING

 

GRAND CENTRAL TERMINAL 

GRAND CENTRAL TERMINAL

 

MANHATTAN SKYLINE 

MANHATTAN SKYLINE

 


PASTRAMI

2nd Ave. Deli

I have visited 2nd Ave. Deli on a number of occasions.  It is always a great spot for an outstanding deli meal.  On this visit I was greeted by Steve Cohen, the manager.  I have enjoyed many of their delicious menu items, including chicken soup, chopped liver, gefilte fish and, of course, pastrami on rye.

SECOND AVE. DELI - 33RD STREET LOCATION 

SECOND AVE. DELI - 33RD STREET LOCATION

 

STEVE COHEN - MANAGER 

STEVE COHEN - MANAGER

 

PASTRAMI ON RYE 

PASTRAMI ON RYE

 

PICKLES AND COLE SLAW 

PICKLES AND COLE SLAW

 

 

Katz's Delicatessen

There are only a handful of delis at which pastrami is presented as nothing short of an art form.   Katz's Delicatessen, located at 205 East Houston Street,  is one of them.  Order a sandwich from the deli man at the counter and he will take the cut of pastrami right out of the steamer and hand carve the pastrami for your sandwich.  The slices of pastrami are stacked high on rye bread, and the steam from the meat adds just the right touch of moisture to the bread.   On this visit I had the pleasure of speaking with Jake Dell, the third generation Dell family member in charge of Katz's Delicatessen.    A trip to New York is incomplete without a stop at Katz's for an outstanding pastrami sandwich. 

KATZ'S DELICATESSEN AT THE CORNER OF HOUSTON AND LUDLOW STREETS 

KATZ'S DELICATESSEN AT THE CORNER OF HOUSTON AND LUDLOW STREETS

 

JAKE DELL 

JAKE DELL

 

DELI MAN, ELI, HOLDING A PIECE OF PASTRAMI JUST TAKEN FROM THE STEAMER

DELI MAN, ELI, HOLDING A PIECE OF PASTRAMI JUST TAKEN FROM THE STEAMER

HAND CARVING THE PASTRAMI 

HAND CARVING THE PASTRAMI

 

PASTRAMI ON RYE 

PASTRAMI ON RYE

 

ANOTHER VIEW OF PASTRAMI ON RYE

ANOTHER VIEW OF PASTRAMI ON RYE

 

Yonah Schimmel's Knish Bakery

After having a sandwich at Katz's it was time for dessert. So I walked just a block or two west to Yonah Schimmel's Knish Bakery, located at 137 East Houston Street. I had - you guessed it - a potato knish, served to me by Yonah's great nephew and manager, Alex Wolfman. The knishes are baked in the basement and brought up to the store level by a dumbwaiter.   It is my understanding that this "institution" has the same decor as it did in 1910 when it opened at this location.   

YONAH SCHIMMEL'S KNISH BAKERY (Notice the misspelling in the sign.) 

YONAH SCHIMMEL'S KNISH BAKERY (Notice the misspelling in the sign.)

 

THE SIGN THAT HANGS ABOVE THE DUMBWAITER 

THE SIGN THAT HANGS ABOVE THE DUMBWAITER

 

ALEX WOLFMAN CARRYING A TRAY OF FRESH KNISHES

ALEX WOLFMAN CARRYING A TRAY OF FRESH KNISHES

THIS KNISH LOOKS GOOD 

THIS KNISH LOOKS GOOD

 

TWO TRAYS OF KNISHES RIGHT OUT OF THE OVEN 

TWO TRAYS OF KNISHES RIGHT OUT OF THE OVEN

 

 

Mile End Delicatessen

Not more than an hour after leaving Yonah Schimmel's, I received a text from my friend, Seth Front,  creator of the Jewish Zodiac.  He insisted that I visit the Mile End Delicatessen and have Montreal style "smoked meat," a north of the border variation of pastrami.   I immediately headed directly to Mile End's Manhattan location.  As this was the first time I experienced "smoked meat," my server, a very upbeat and enthusiastic young lady, suggested that I have a sandwich with both the leaner and fattier cuts of meat.  This delicious "smoked meat" sandwich was a perfect follow up to my "pastrami & knish" lunch and a perfect mid-afternoon snack before my Italian dinner.

MILE END DELICATESSEN - MANHATTAN 

MILE END DELICATESSEN - MANHATTAN

 

TYPICAL OF AN ARTISAN DELI, MILE END DELICATESSEN HAS A LIMITED MENU

TYPICAL OF AN ARTISAN DELI, MILE END DELICATESSEN HAS A LIMITED MENU

MONTREAL STYLE "SMOKED MEAT" ON RYE 

MONTREAL STYLE "SMOKED MEAT" ON RYE

 

Rediscovering Chicago

Cloud Gate, commonly known as "the Bean," is located in MILLENnIUM Park. 

About 15 years ago I rediscovered the charm of my birthplace, Chicago, IL.  The city, populated by warm and welcoming Midwesterners, has stunning architecture, a beautiful lakefront skyline, a downtown area that is vibrant, and has a wealth of excellent restaurants.   Delis, although not as abundant as in New York or Los Angeles, have a character of their own. During each of my 6 or 7 visits a year I have the opportunity to meet  many new friends from all walks of life - business & professional, shopkeepers, students, educators, working people and homeless individuals.   And on each visit I am often joined by friends, family and colleagues at Chicago's most popular deli's to enjoy my most favorite deli food - pastrami.


PEOPLE

Stret musicians on the Michigan avenue bridge

Stret musicians on the Michigan avenue bridge

Street musician on Michigan Avenue

Street musician on Michigan Avenue

street musician on lake st.

street musician on lake st.

happy couple on wabash st.

happy couple on wabash st.

Senior citizens

Senior citizens

Bar tender at pizano's pizza & pasta

Bar tender at pizano's pizza & pasta

Bride and groom photo shoot

Bride and groom photo shoot

Mayor Rahm Emanuel at eleven city diner

Mayor Rahm Emanuel at eleven city diner

gelato servers at eataly

gelato servers at eataly

Pizza server at eataly

Pizza server at eataly

Visitors from denmark

Visitors from denmark

Braving the snow on north wabash st.

Braving the snow on north wabash st.

Braving the snow and sleet  

Braving the snow and sleet  

Man's best friend

Man's best friend


PLACES

This was my home from age 7 through age 18.  

This was my home from age 7 through age 18.

 

 

Excursion boat on the chicago river

Excursion boat on the chicago river

chicago river - trump tower on the left and wrigley building ahead

chicago river - trump tower on the left and wrigley building ahead

Snowfall 

Snowfall 

Snowfall - clybourn AVe.

Snowfall - clybourn AVe.

Trees in MILLENNIUM park

Trees in MILLENNIUM park

The Crown Fountain

The Crown Fountain

Trump Tower

Trump Tower

Chicago River - Marina City on the right

Chicago River - Marina City on the right


PASTRAMI

One of my more recent discoveries is Eleven City Diner, located at 1112 South Wabash Ave.  This restaurant has the vibe of both a diner and a deli.  On a recent visit I was greeted by Roz Rubin, the proud mother of the owner, Brad Rubin.  I have had the opportunity to enjoy a number of their delicious menu offerings including pastrami.     

Pastrami sandwich at eleven city diner

Pastrami sandwich at eleven city diner


Although it is hard to believe, I sometimes order a menu item other than pastrami.   Here is an outstanding selection at the Bagel Restaurant and Deli located in the Old Orchard Shopping Center in Skokie, IL.    This is "Polish Style Fish" - smoked whitefish stuffed with gefilte fish in a tasty broth smothered with carrots and onions.   Outstanding!

"Polish style fish" at the Bagel restaurant & deli

"Polish style fish" at the Bagel restaurant & deli


One of my all time favorites in Chicago is Manny's Cafeteria & Delicatessen , located at 1141 S. Jefferson St.   Their food is served cafeteria style and the menu includes a wide selection of deli items, including overstuffed sandwiches accompanied by a potato latke.   Manny's is family owned, and diners are often greeted by the owner, Ken Raskin, and his son Dan.   A trip to Chicago is incomplete without at least one visit to Manny's.

Preparing a pastrami sandwich at Manny's Cafeteria & Delicatessen

Preparing a pastrami sandwich at Manny's Cafeteria & Delicatessen

Pastrami sandwich with a potato latke - Manny's Cafeteria &delicatessen

Pastrami sandwich with a potato latke - Manny's Cafeteria &

delicatessen

Welcome!

Brownie Hawkeye

When I was 8 years old my father and mother gave me a camera, a Brownie Hawkeye.   I loved it.  I began to photograph everything that I could, family, friends, my neighborhood and the city. If it could put a smile on someone’s face, I photographed it.  The camera rarely left my hands.  Over the years my passion for photography grew, as did my passion for the culture of the city and for great food.  My career as an educator and forensic expert has given me the opportunity to travel around the country and expand my photographic horizons.   I thrill in taking to the streets with my camera, shooting from the hip, meeting new people, and exploring our country’s great cities.   

“People, Places & Pastrami” will be a photographic journal of my travels.   It will feature my favorite cities, introduce people from all walks of life whom I have met along the way, and share the featured foods served my favorite eating establishments, particularly Jewish delis.  

I welcome you to “Michael’s America: People, Places & Pastrami.”

                                                             Michael G. Kaplan